Let’s Talk About Tofu (Part 1: Unseasoned Block Tofu)

Soft, firm tofu and how to cook with tofu

Hi! This week, we’re diving into another Chinese pantry staple: tofu. I first wrote about it 5 years ago. I've since then been updating my knowledge through my trips to China and cooking at home. Tofu is a broad topic, so it’s divided into two parts: this first part focuses on unseasoned block tofu and there will one about tofu products soon-ish.

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If you're here, I assume I don’t need to convince you that “tofu is not bland.” It never was—if you've had the luxury of tasting freshly made tofu. Its nutty flavor and smooth texture require no complex preparation or seasoning. The beauty of tofu lies in its versatility. A perfect example is a tofu banquet I once had in Xiba, a small Sichuan town known for its tofu dishes. At Fangde Doufu, the menu featured over 20 (if not more) different tofu dishes: shallow-fried, deep-fried, stewed, steamed, and even made into donuts. A myriad of textures and flavors was celebrated: custardy, silky, chewy, pillowy, and cloud-like. None of it was bland.

tofu banquet at Fangde Doufu, Xiba Sichuan

What Is Tofu?

Tofu, or doufu (豆腐), is soybean curd. The process of making tofu is straightforward: dried soybeans are soaked and ground with water, then strained to produce raw soy milk. The milk is cooked and mixed with a coagulant, which curdles the soy milk into curds. These curds are either eaten directly as douhua (tofu pudding) or pressed into firmer tofu. Traditionally, tofu was made using a stone mill. Common coagulants include gypsum (calcium sulfate), nigari (magnesium chloride), and GDL (glucono delta lactone). Some people even use home remedies like lemon juice or vinegar.

tofu shops in farmers’ markets, Chengdu

Tofu has been made in China for thousands of years, with legends suggesting it dates back to the Han Dynasty. The first written record appeared during the Song Dynasty¹. By the Ming Dynasty, tofu production had become highly developed, with various types of beans and coagulants in use². Tofu is a staple in Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, but it’s also widely enjoyed by omnivores and integrated into everyday diets. When I was a child in the 90s, you could still spot stone mills grinding tofu on street corners or in backyards. Nowadays, few people make tofu from scratch at home, but fresh tofu, soy milk, and tofu products are readily available in markets.

Types of Block Tofu

In modern Chinese cooking, fresh, unseasoned tofu is categorized into two main types: firm and soft tofu. While the flavor is mild across both types, the texture varies based on water content and coagulant. These differences can also vary by brand and region. Generally, tofu made with gypsum and GDL is softer than tofu made with nigari.

Firm Tofu

Firm tofu, also known as lao doufu (老豆腐) or bei doufu (北豆腐) in Chinese, is sometimes labeled as plain tofu. It has a pale yellow color and a bouncy, compact texture. It holds its shape well during cooking, making it ideal for savory dishes like pan-frying, deep-frying, or braising.

firm tofu

Uses: Pan-frying (Home-style tofu or Soy-glazed tofu), soups, and braises.

Preparation Tips: Contrary to popular belief, pressing or marinating tofu is NOT always necessary. For many Chinese dishes, the goal is a crispy exterior with a tender inside. Simply patting off excess water with a clean towel before pan-frying helps prevent splattering and allows the tofu to absorb sauce flavors while staying crispy outside.

You’ll also find medium-firm or extra-firm tofu in stores, often labeled as “natural tofu” (Naturtofu) in Germany. These varieties are similar to firm tofu but differ in water content.

Extra-Firm Tofu

Store-bought extra-firm tofu, common in the West, is less used in traditional Chinese cooking (pressed tofu, doufugan, is preferred). However, it’s great for beginners and perfect for crispy tofu due to its dense texture and high protein content. Skip the pressing step and go straight for extra-firm tofu if you're aiming for crispy results.

extra firm tofu, fried to crispy

Uses: Crispy tofu for veggie stir-fries, Sweet and sour tofu, dumpling filling.

Preparation tip: fry over medium heat, until all sides are crispy and let drain on a paper towel

Soft and Silken Tofu

Soft tofu, known as nen doufu (嫩豆腐) or nan doufu (南豆腐) in China, contains over 90% water, giving it a delicate, custardy texture. It's great for soups, stews, and cold dishes. Chinese soft tofu is typically made with gypsum or nigari and is either unpressed or lightly pressed, depending on the brand.

left: soft tofu; right: silken tofu

Silken tofu, usually the Japanese variety, is called neizhi doufu (内脂豆腐) or juan doufu (绢豆腐). While it can substitutefor Chinese soft tofu, silken tofu is made from rich soy milk and left completely unpressed. It’s often sold ready to eat and works well in quick salads. Silken tofu comes in soft, firm, or extra-firm varieties, but all have a delicate texture.

Uses: Braised dishes (the famous Mapo Tofu), cold dishes, stews, purees, and desserts.

Preparation Tips: For stews and braises, you can blanch the tofu in salted water for 1 min or briefly soak it in boiling water. This helps the tofu hold its shape and absorb more flavor.

Tofu Pudding (Douhua)

Douhua, or tofu pudding, is even softer than silken tofu and is usually enjoyed freshly made. You rarely find this in the store. It’s often made with gypsum or GDL for a smooth texture and can be used in both desserts and savory dishes. In southern part of Sichuan, some douhua varieties are made with nigari extracted from well salt, giving them a more rustic, textured feel.

two types of douhua in Sichuan, left: possibly made with gypsum in Langzhong; the right is made with nigari from well salt in Zigong

How to Pick Block Tofu

I recommend shopping at a well-stocked Asian grocery store. In my experience, tofu from my local German supermarkets (often vacuum-sealed without liquid) tends to be too firm and slightly sour.

Look for tofu packaged in clear plastic with some liquid in the refrigerated section. Occasionally, you’ll find freshly made tofu in unlabelled plastic bags—these are usually the freshest. Andrea Nguyen’s guide on reading tofu package labels is also helpful, especially her tip about checking protein content for firmness (firm tofu has around 8–9g of protein per 100g, while soft tofu has about 4–5g).

Try a few different brands to find your favorite. In Berlin, I often buy firm and soft tofu from a local producer called Treiber, and soft tofu from a Spanish producer often labeled “tofu bland.”

A few more tips

1. Find tofu with a fresh production date, preferably from a local producer.

2. Fresh tofu should smell nutty, like soybeans, not sour or stale.

3. The texture should feel smooth and bouncy, not grainy or crumbly.

How to Store Tofu

Most recipes, including mine, use a whole block of tofu, but if you have leftovers:

1. Store leftover tofu in its original container, submerged in cold water. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Use it within a few days.

2. You can also freeze tofu. Slice it before freezing. Freezing changes its texture, making it more porous and spongy when thawed.

What do you find challenging cooking with tofu? Let me know in the comments!

1. The first written record of tofu appears in Qing Yi Lu, a Northern Song text by Taogu (《清异录》陶谷)

2. In the famous herbology book Bencao Gangmu (本草纲目), tofu was recorded as being made from white beans, peas, and mung beans, using coagulants like nigari, vinegar, and gypsum.