19 Comments
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MarinaZee's avatar

This was fascinating. I wish I could have been in your entourage:) Do you think I, who only speaks English, could find my way there? I could bring your article above and point! Brava.

Xueci Cheng's avatar

Thank you, Marina! I think within Dali, for example, the Beimen is right inside the ancient town, which is a major tourist site. The Fengyi market is also quite close to the city center and airport; these should be easy to navigate with a translator app! For the rest (the cheese and the last market), you’ll probably need a tour guide or a car. However, there are many weekly or bi-weekly markets happening around Dali, so it should be easy to find others to stroll through

Yanyu 煙雨's avatar

The shengpi section is great — your mom watching with complicated feelings while you ate raw pork at a market in Yunnan is such a perfect travel moment 😄 The rushan cheese process was also so fascinating, I had no idea Yunnan had a cheese tradition that old. Adding Dali to the list immediately.

Xueci Cheng's avatar

Definitely a scene and a food I will think about! Thanks yanyu!

Rowena Harding 🍉's avatar

Loved everything about this post: the complicated pig feelings, the dialect struggles, and of course all the food you tried! I'll be there in December and will definitely check out a few markets now.

Paul Dotta's avatar

"Posu baba (破酥粑粑) filled with rose brown sugar syrup" - SOOO good. We loved the salty version but I've got to return for this rose brown sugar! 💝

Xueci Cheng's avatar

More reasons for us to return to Dali 🥺

Yi Xue's avatar

Just came back from an 8-day vacation in Dali; reading your post made me want to go back there again! We went to several markets while we were there, and a visit to the 素方舟weekend market was very eye-opening—made me think of the hippy Berkeley market 😉!

Xueci Cheng's avatar

Oh, 8 days in Dali sounds dreamy! I only had 3-4 days and would love to go back and check out some more markets. I haven't been to 素方舟 but i can imagine the vibe haha!

Kavita Favelle's avatar

Loved reading this post, and especially reading about what you came across in the various Yunnan markets!

Mao Zhou's avatar

I’m thrilled that you featured Yunnan. ☁️

One of my favorite restaurants in Beijing was called Lost Heaven and featured a delicious Yunnan menu. I’m still trying to recreate those dishes.

Xueci Cheng's avatar

Lost Heaven is actually a great name for a Yunnan restaurant! I was in Beijing 12 years ago, and the hip Yunnan place that we went is called 火烧云, which is also quite poetic, and I think they're still quite popular!

Mao Zhou's avatar

Yay! 臭豆腐!! 😱

Barbara Barany's avatar

Another culinary and cultural gem to my foreigner heart who is strangely homesick for China after just 1 visit earlier this year. 🫶

Xueci Cheng's avatar

Thank you! I'm for sure also having a bit of homesickness while going through all the photos here in Germany 🥺❤️

Ross M's avatar

I lived in Dali for a decade, in Xiaguan near the train station. I passed on many, many dishes of raw pork at weddings and festivals. I'd love to hear the name of director Chen's favorite restaurant near the train station, so I could look it up.

Xueci Cheng's avatar

this place is called 侯四嬢洱源右所特色菜, it’s like 10-15 min walk from the Dali main train station!

Ross M's avatar

Nice! My company's workshop was at one time in that same neighboorhood as that restaurant. I've been away a few years, though, so I've never been to that particular place. Thanks for covering Yunnan! Its definitely a hidden gem for a host of good reasons, and deserves more coverage.

Paul Dotta's avatar

"People go to Dali after a breakup; they go to Jingdezhen after burnout or unemployment.” - what a strange pairing!